Edey's Vintage and Current Needlework

Knitting Cables - A Tip on Turning the Stitches

2009-11-10T15:58:00Z

If you have had a difficult time working a cable on your knitted project, this tip may help.

Use a aluminum crochet hook as the stitch holder, that use that hook to make the new stitches, instead of trying to knit them off of the stitch holder.

I've always had a hard time knitting the stitches that are being held aside for the cable twist. My knitting is usually too tight to make the crossover easily, and try as I might I couldn't easily knit the stitches off of the cable needle. So I got the idea of using an aluminum crochet hook similar in size to my stitches as a stitch holder, then hooking the yarn to make the new stitches, instead of knitting the new stitches off of a stitch holder needle, or cable needle.

The aluminum hook I'm using is a size B (2.25 mm) by Boye, it has a matte or powder finish to it that helps hold the yarn on the hook. I place the stitches on the hook body that I want to hold for the twist of the cable, then knit the other half of the cable stitches. I place the held back stitches back on the left needle from the hook, then with the first held back stitch, start hooking the yarn and placing the new stitches on the right needle, adjusting the tension as the stitch is placed on the knitting needle.

Doing the cable twist this way has made for a easier and neater result in the cable twist. It eliminates the strain on the stitches that need to be knitted at the crossover, from trying to reach them with the right side knitting needle.

I've used this trick for other knitting projects, when working with twisted stitches. One of the decreases that I like to use twists the stitches in the opposite direction from how they normally sit on the needle, and it is easier to pull the yarn thru those twisted stitches with a hook then grabbing them with the right knitting needle. I knit thru the back loop instead of from the front/left; when I twist my stitches they are then facing front/left, and therefore somewhat tight compared to the other stitches in the same row. The hook makes it easy to grab the yarn and pull it thru the tight stitches without splitting the stitches or the yarn.

Enjoy! Edey

Toe-up Socks - A Joy to Knit

2009-11-08T15:58:00Z

Knitting this first pair of toe-up socks was a joy to do, and so easy to complete compared to making socks knitted from the top down.

One part about top-down socks that I don't like doing is creating the gusset by picking up numerous stitches along the side of the heel stitches, then working them off with decreases to return to the width of the foot. Working with those extra stitches on extra needles is cumbersome, and I was always glad when I got finished with the gusset section.

Picking up the extra stitches along the heel flap isn't necessary in this version of toe-up socks. The gusset stitches are added at the side of the sole stitches as the foot is worked, until the gusset is wide enough to fit over the thickest part of the ankle/heel area, then the heel is shaped on those extra stitches. Once I worked it out and understood the procedure, I thought "Wow", this is easy, and fast.

Another part of top-down that I don't care for is casting on the stitches, then arranging them on the double-point needles. It is always awkward and clumsy.

With the toe-up sock, the toe is started by crocheting a chain using length of waste yarn, then the knit stitches are picked-up on the back side of the chain and placed on the knitting needle. From there the toe is worked as a short row toe (short-row toe tutorial). Starting the sock this way was so much easier than fumbling with getting the cast-on stitches aligned and connected to start knitting in the round on double-point needles for the top-down sock.

The only difficulty I did have with the toe-up sock was judging where to start the gusset increases. In hindsight I know now I should have started them sooner along the length of the foot, as I needed more width for my thicker ankles. But this will be an easy change for the next pair of toe-up socks.

I highly recommend knitting socks this way. They were a great joy to knit.

Edey

Toe-up Socks, Finished

2009-11-01T21:53:00Z

Here is the finished pair. They were completed with a sewn binding which is what gives it the ruffled look to the top. The little balls of yarn are all that was left when they were done.

I'll write more in my next post.

Edey

New Challenge - Learning Stranded Knitting

2009-10-25T16:21:00Z

Stranded Knitting - working a design into the knitting using a contrasting color. Ski sweaters with a snow flake design is an example. Another familiar term is Fair Isle; however in some cases it seems Stranded knitting and Fair Isle aren't always interchangeable. I'm new to these different terms so I'm no authority on them.

Stranded knitting is another of my latest challenges, learning how to work a design into a project using different colored yarns. I'm following a snow flake design using pink against a white background to create the design; for now just using some leftover yarn to work on the design.When this sample is done I'll have a nice hot pad for the kitchen, and a record of my work.

I had done Stranded knitting for a simple Christmas project many years ago but never did it again, due to the complex nature of the work. Now I'm back to see if I can improve my skills and make knitting more interesting at the same time. Taking on a challenge keeps my interest going in a craft.

Here is the pattern, from Knitty.com: Corazon mittens

So far it is going okay, however because I knit somewhat differently than most, (knitting through the back of the loop instead of thru the front-left), the yarn that is coming off of the balls of yarn are getting quite twisted after a couple of rows working the pattern. I'm sure there must be a better way. I cannot imagine knitting a complicated sweater design and having to un-wind tangled yarn every few rows. If I get good at this I plan on making these mittens, and then moving on to other stranded knitting projects, possibly a pair of socks or a new Christmas stocking.

Edey

Toe-up Socks, So Far: Part Two & Update

2009-10-21T15:46:00Z

I wanted to give you an update on the toe-up socks that I have been knitting, described in my last post.

One of the learning points of knitting socks is finding the right length of each part; toe, foot, gusset, heel, then later the length of the leg, making it all fit correctly. Once you have that worked out you can make any design of sock using the same size of yarn and needle as long as you keep to those measurements.

For me the total length of the foot, heel to toe, must be 10 ½ inches to allow enough room for comfort. I had attempted a formula to work out the sections on my last post of:

2 inches for the toe

4 ½ inches for the foot

2 inches for the gusset

2 inches for the heel – the heel to be a short row heel

However this formula turned out to be incorrect; when I got the heel finished and tried on the sock it barely reached the back of my foot. So back to the drawing board to figure out what I needed to change.

I ripped out the stitching back to the row where I started the gusset and added 2 more inches to the foot section, then started the gusset over again, but this time I added the gusset stitches to the sole stitches instead of the instep stitches, placing one stitch in the 2^nd stitch of the 3^rd needle (which is holding half of the sole stitches), and placing one stitch in the last stitch of the 4^th needle (which is holding the other half of the sole stitches). The increase was worked every other row. By the time the gusset increases were completed I had added 12 stitches to each needle, or 24 increased stitches, making a total of 30 stitches per sole needle. (18+12x2 needles).

Then I went to work on the heel. I put the instep stitches onto a holder and worked back and forth on the sole stitches to create the heel. The instructions for the heel came from the Socks From the Toe Up book by Wendy D. Johnson, page 38. This type of heel is more open, was quicker to work, and fit my heel better. When viewed from the back of the heel the line of decreases resembles a u-shape with the sides of the “U” pointing towards the ankle bone.

When the heel was finished I went back to working in the round with the instep stitches, to start on the leg. I did about one inch of plain stockinette stitch on the leg, then started on the ribbing. The ribbing design I chose is a spiral rib; work 4 rows of knit two, purl two, then shift the rib by one stitch on the 5^th row. Start that row with purl one, knit two, purl two, continue in the pattern for another 4 rows, then shift again, this time starting with purl two, knit two. Four more rows, shift again on the 5^th and start it knit one purl two, knit two. If you have a larger leg like mine you can go up one size of knitting needle when you get to the larger part of the leg for easier sizing. I went from a size one needle to a size 2 (U.S. sizes)

Keep going until you have the length of leg that you want. For the last 2 inches at the top I did a straight knit two, purl two ribbing.

This is where my sock project is now; I have to decide on how best to bind off the top. I’ve read about a tubular bind-off so as to keep the top stretchy. This may be what I do to finish the sock.

More updates to come.

Edey

Toe-up sock progress, so far

2009-10-05T15:03:00Z

I got my toe-up sock project up and running, and it is turning out easier to do than I thought it would. I had to work the project before I could get an understanding of how it was done; just reading the directions alone wasn't helping me understand the process.

I started the sock using the waste yarn method of casting on. It is explained here:

waste yarn cast-on

1. I used 36 stitches, and made a short row toe. This toe was 2 inches long when finished, using fingering weight yarn and size 1 double point needles. I used 4 double point needles to hold the stitches, and 1 to work the stitches, for a total of 5 needles for the project.

2. Next was working on the foot for 4 1/2 inches measure from the toe - a total of 6 1/2 inches from the tip to where I wanted to start the gusset. (Toe = 2 inches & foot = 4 1/2 inches)

3. Then I started the gusset, that wedge shaped area that fits the sock over the widest part of the foot and ankle. On the first needle of the round, at the second stitch I increased 1 stitch using the M1 type increase, then knitted across to the last stitch on the 2nd needle, and did a M1 increase in the last stitch of the second needle. These 2 needles are the instep stitches. I finished that round and worked the next round without increases. Increases are made every other round, always in the 2nd stitch of the first needle and last stitch of the 2nd needle. I increased a total of 12 stitches on the first needle and 12 stitches on the 2nd needle.

This is where I'm at right now. I will work a short row heel, done in a similar way as the toe, using the stitches on the 3rd and 4th needle, while holding the stitches on needles 1 and 2 aside.

So this is the formula so far:

2 inches of toe

4 1/2 inches of foot

2 inches of gusset

2 inches of heel

to make a sock that measures 10 1/2 inches, for a foot that measure 10 1/4 inches long and 10 1/4 inches around at the ball of the foot.

I'll update as I progress on the sock.

Edey

Socks from the Toe Up - A Book Review

2009-09-29T15:00:00Z

Socks from the Toe Up by Wendy D. Johnson

I went looking for a new project challenge recently and decided to work on improving my sock-knitting skills. Over a years time between 2007-08 I taught myself how to knit socks, and it became my favorite knitting project. I liked that I could make them fit my large feet, make them with different kinds of yarns, and at the same time have a project that was easy to pick up and work on for just a few moments of time. I began using the more common form of sock-knitting, knitting from the top down; making a ribbed top, then the heel, then working on the foot, then finally the toe. I had to learn how to do the Kitchener stitch, which is a way to weave the two sides of the toe end together so that it is seamless. It is a tricky skill to learn, but oh, so worth it, when you see the finished product.

There is another way to knit socks, and that is starting with the toe first and working in the opposite direction with the top knitted last. There are advantages with this method in that there is no Kitchener stitch needed to finish the toe as that is where you begin – with the toe. As you work on the toe and foot you can easily try on the sock to see how it fits you. And if you happen to run short on yarn you can just decide to finish with a shorter top and end it there. So for all of these reasons, and to find a challenge to occupy myself with, I went looking for a good instruction book on the method of toe-up socks.

I have found it in Socks from the Toe Up, by Wendy D. Johnson.

The book has very good instruction on tools and yarns needed for sock knitting, and basic sock knitting techniques. It then goes into instruction for getting started with different toe styles, and for using either cable needles or double point needles for your project. It gives instruction for making a sock with gussets, or without, and for creating different heels. There are chapters on basic socks, lace socks and patterned socks. There are many beautiful patterns included, with instructions and charts for knitting them. In the back of the book is resource guide, definitions, and an abbreviations chart.

The book includes many clear close-up pictures of the projects, which is a great help, in my opinion, when it comes to learning a new method. There are plenty of projects of different skill levels to keep your interest going for a long time.

This book is well worth the price, which is printed on the back cover as U.S. $22.95. It is a heavy-duty soft cover book, sized about 8x10”. Look around and see if you can find it for a discount. It is a most enjoyable book.

Enjoy - Edey

Fall is Here - Time to relax with Needlework

2009-09-16T15:47:00Z

There is something about Fall weather that makes me start thinking again about knitting, quilting and sewing. Here in So. Calif. we don't get Fall until later than most, so it isn't the influence of cold weather, but something about the crisp blue clear skies and the angle of the sun, the shorter days and longer nights that sparks the mood for picking up the needlework projects that got set aside last spring.

Sometimes my husband and I will go for a drive into the mountains to see the trees changing color, or out to rural farm areas to see the fields and orchards being harvested. I get a very strong feeling after those trips that I just want to nestle down in my big chair, curled up with a basket of needlework, and just spend the day relaxing and thinking. It is so comforting after the extreme heat of summer to be able to snuggle up under a soft lap quilt or afghan and knit or sew away.

I start thinking about crocheting slippers to wear around the house, of knitting bed socks to keep my feet warm during the night. I look at knitting patterns for hats, gloves and scarfs to have ready for when cold weather does arrive. It feels good to search thru internet sites that offer free patterns. One of my favorite sites is Knittingpatterncentral.com. This site has hundreds of links to patterns of all kinds. It also has a sister site; Crochetpatterncentral.com. If you want inspiration for some projects these are good sites to check out.

Another site I enjoy is Knitty.com. This site also has a good variety of knitting patterns, and articles about knitting and yarn spinning too. Very interesting site.

A good site for knitting help is: Knittinghelp.com. This site has videos to show different forms of knitting.

The slow leisurely pace of Fall is so enjoyable. The sky is beautiful, the air is fresh and cool, and nights are cool enough to sleep well. Be happy, everyone, and enjoy life! Edey

Singercraft Guide - for making yarn rugs

2009-08-10T14:13:00Z

The Singercraft guide is a tool that was made by the Singer sewing machine company around mid 20th century so that yarn rugs, and other decorative trims, could be made easily on the home sewing machine.

The Singercraft guide is a flat metal bar, divided into 2 sections by a slot the length of the bar, with a little loop latch to hold the 2 sides together at one end, and with large flattened bulb shaped plastic head on the other end bearing the name and logo of Singer. There is a picture here (I'm not affiliated with this site). The guide also came with a cutter attachment that could be used to cut the yarn loops after they were sewn together. More about this below. There were also extensions available to make a wider yarn loop, however I don't have these.

The way it works: Yarn is wrapped around the flat bar filling the length of the bar, then the bar is set down over a fabric backing and all placed under the presser foot of the sewing machine, lining up the slot in the bar with the needle. You sew along the length of the bar, being careful to keep the needle in the slot, until you reach within 4 or 5 of the last wraps. Then you loosen the little latch, pull the bar towards you, but not all the way out of the last stitches, and make more wraps along the length of the bar. You continue this for the width of the rug you are making. When you get to the other side of the rug, you cut the yarn and begin again, laying the second strand of loops next to, and over the first strand. When the project is finished you now have a thick piled yarn rug. Finish the edges, put a non-slip backing on the rug, and you are done.

My version was done a little different. After making 3 or 4 strands of yarn loops sewn directly to the fabric and breaking 2 needles in the process when the needle drifted off line of the slot on the bar, I figured there had to be a better way to do it. So instead of sewing the strand to the fabric as I made the wrapped strand, I made the strand separately, directly putting the bar under the presser foot, and wrapping and sewing the length that I needed. I then laid that strand tightly next to the previous row on the fabric backing and stitched it down, first one way, then turned it and sewed it back again to make sure all was good and secure. This way worked out better, the bar stayed flat on the sewing machine bed as I stitched, and I could easily keep the needle lined up with the slot as I stitched. I would wrap about 3 inches, stitch, then move the bar back towards me to free up more space for more wraps. I used a heavy cotton yarn for my rug, like the Peaches n Cream brand.

The fabric I used was a denim weight fabric. I hemmed the edges first, but bias tape could also be used on the edges. Then I started laying on and stitching the strands. The finished size will be 16 inches x 30 inches. As you add strands to the backing you have to roll up the excess fabric to fit it under the arm of the sewing machine; if you rug is much bigger that this size, it would be difficult to get it under the arm to stitch the strands to the backing.

The cutter attachment: This is an attachment that fits on the end corner of the bar. It's purpose is to cut the yarn loops after they are sewn together.As you move the bar towards you to make more loops the cutter slices thru the loops, making tufts out of the yarn loops. It's use is optional and can be removed from the bar if necessary.

Other project ideas are making fringe to decorate clothing, pillows, bags, or furniture.

The Singercraft guide shows up on e-bay frequently. But don't pay horrible prices for it; it is not a rare item. As far as I know they aren't made any more, but that still doesn't make them rare. Thousands were made by Singer.

If you are familiar with the craft of hairpin lace, the loom used for that can also be used to make yarn wraps. Or if you are really handy, bend a piece of heavy wire into a big narrow U shape and use that to make your yarn wraps.

Enjoy. Edey

The Stitching Awl

2009-07-16T13:29:00Z

Also known as the Sewing Awl. This is a tool that has been around for a long time that makes it easy to stitch up heavy fabrics and leathers, things that would be difficult to stitch on an ordinary sewing machine. It is also very good for repairing things that wouldn't fit under a sewing machine foot, such as a torn tent canvas, or a leather strap. It is simple to use, and makes a very strong stitch using the heavy duty waxed thread. It is small enough to be carried with you if you are an outdoors type person, and need to make repairs when you are miles from any store. I experimented yesterday with mine, making some stitches on the thick handle of a canvas shopping bag. It stitched it easily without any problems. Something like this should be kept in the car, and in all emergency kits, and anywhere you might need some simple stitching done.

Here is a video showing how it works: The Sewing Awl

Edey