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October 2009 - Posts - Edey's Vintage and Current Needlework
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Edey's Vintage and Current Needlework

October 2009 - Posts

  • New Challenge - Learning Stranded Knitting

     Stranded Knitting - working a design into the knitting using a contrasting color. Ski sweaters with a snow flake design is an example. Another familiar term is Fair Isle; however in some cases it seems Stranded knitting and Fair Isle aren't always interchangeable. I'm new to these different terms so I'm no authority on them. 

    Stranded knitting is another of my latest challenges, learning how to work a design into a project using different colored yarns. I'm following a snow flake design using pink against a white background to create the design; for now just using some leftover yarn to work on the design.When this sample is done I'll have a nice hot pad for the kitchen, and a record of my work. 

    I had done Stranded knitting for a simple Christmas project many years ago but never did it again, due to the complex nature of the work. Now I'm back to see if I can improve my skills and make knitting more interesting at the same time.  Taking on a challenge keeps my interest going in a craft.

    Here is the pattern, from Knitty.com:   Corazon mittens

    So far it is going okay, however because I knit somewhat differently than most, (knitting through the back of the loop instead of thru the front-left), the yarn that is coming off of the balls of yarn are getting quite twisted after a couple of rows working the pattern.  I'm sure there must be a better way. I cannot imagine knitting a complicated sweater design and having to un-wind tangled yarn every few rows. If I get good at this I plan on making these mittens, and then moving on to other stranded knitting projects, possibly a pair of socks or a new Christmas stocking.  

    Edey

  • Toe-up Socks, So Far: Part Two & Update

     

     

    I wanted to give you an update on the toe-up socks that I have been knitting, described in my last post. 

     One of the learning points of knitting socks is finding the right length of each part; toe, foot, gusset, heel, then later the length of the leg, making it all fit correctly.  Once you have that worked out you can make any design of sock using the same size of yarn and needle as long as you keep to those measurements.

     

    For me the total length of the foot, heel to toe, must be 10 ½ inches to allow enough room for comfort. I had attempted a formula to work out the sections on my last post of:

     

    2 inches for the toe

    4 ½ inches for the foot

    2 inches for the gusset

    2 inches for the heel – the heel to be a short row heel

     

    However this formula turned out to be incorrect; when I got the heel finished and tried on the sock it barely reached the back of my foot. So back to the drawing board to figure out what I needed to change. 

     

    I ripped out the stitching back to the row where I started the gusset and added 2 more inches to the foot section, then started the gusset over again, but this time I added the gusset stitches to the sole stitches instead of the instep stitches, placing one stitch in the 2nd stitch of the 3rd needle (which is holding half of the sole stitches), and placing one stitch in the last stitch of the 4th needle (which is holding the other half of the sole stitches). The increase was worked every other row. By the time the gusset increases were completed I had added 12 stitches to each needle, or 24 increased stitches, making a total of 30 stitches per sole needle. (18+12x2 needles).

     

    Then I went to work on the heel. I put the instep stitches onto a holder and worked back and forth on the sole stitches to create the heel. The instructions for the heel came from the Socks From the Toe Up book by Wendy D. Johnson, page 38. This type of heel is more open, was quicker to work, and fit my heel better. When viewed from the back of the heel the line of decreases resembles a u-shape with the sides of the “U” pointing towards the ankle bone.

     

    When the heel was finished I went back to working in the round with the instep stitches, to start on the leg. I did about one inch of plain stockinette stitch on the leg, then started on the ribbing. The ribbing design I chose is a spiral rib; work 4 rows of knit two, purl two, then shift the rib by one stitch on the 5th row. Start that row with purl one, knit two, purl two, continue in the pattern for another 4 rows, then shift again, this time starting with purl two, knit two. Four more rows, shift again on the 5th and start it knit one purl two, knit two. If you have a larger leg like mine you can go up one size of knitting needle when you get to the larger part of the leg for easier sizing. I went from a size one needle to a size 2 (U.S. sizes)

     

     Keep going until you have the length of leg that you want.  For the last 2 inches at the top I did a straight knit two, purl two ribbing.

     

    This is where my sock project is now; I have to decide on how best to bind off the top. I’ve read about a tubular bind-off so as to keep the top stretchy. This may be what I do to finish the sock. 

     

    More updates to come. 

    Edey

  • Toe-up sock progress, so far

     I got my toe-up sock project up and running, and it is turning out easier to do than I thought it would. I had to work the project before I could get an understanding of how it was done; just reading the directions alone wasn't helping me understand the process. 

    I started the sock using the waste yarn method of casting on. It is explained here: 

     waste yarn cast-on

    1. I used 36 stitches, and made a short row toe. This toe was 2 inches long when finished, using fingering weight yarn and size 1 double point needles. I used 4 double point needles to hold the stitches, and 1 to work the stitches, for a total of 5 needles for the project. 

    2. Next was working on the foot for 4 1/2 inches measure from the toe - a total of 6 1/2 inches from the tip to where I wanted to start the gusset. (Toe = 2 inches & foot = 4 1/2 inches)

    3. Then I started the gusset, that wedge shaped area that fits the sock over the widest part of the foot and ankle. On the first needle of the round, at the second stitch I increased 1 stitch using the M1 type increase, then knitted across to the last stitch on the 2nd needle, and did a M1 increase in the last stitch of the second needle. These 2 needles are the instep stitches. I finished that round and worked the next round without increases. Increases are made every other round, always in the 2nd stitch of the first needle and last stitch of the 2nd needle. I increased a total of 12 stitches on the first needle and 12 stitches on the 2nd needle. 

    This is where I'm at right now. I will work a short row heel, done in a similar way as the toe, using the stitches on the 3rd and 4th needle, while holding the stitches on needles 1 and 2 aside. 

    So this is the formula so far: 

    2 inches of toe

    4 1/2 inches of foot

    2 inches of gusset 

    2 inches of heel

    to make a sock that measures 10 1/2 inches, for a foot that measure 10 1/4 inches long and 10 1/4 inches around at the ball of the foot. 

    I'll update as I progress on the sock.  

    Edey

     

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